
Written by
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This page is about the decision rather than the product. It sets out why comprehensive cover is recommended over Third-Party cover, how it sits next to a standalone Own Damage cover, what a Comprehensive Plan costs by car type and car age, and what an electric car or a loan on the car changes. For what the plan itself holds, clause by clause, read comprehensive car insurance explained.

Written by
Lead Content Writer
Reviewed by
Head - Tech Product & Digital Business
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Comprehensive car insurance is one policy that holds 2 covers at the same time: an Own Damage cover that pays to repair or replace your own car, and the Third-Party cover the law requires, which pays for the people and the property you harm with your car. Kiwi Insurance sells it as the Comprehensive Plan, and this gives you comprehensive cover from the day the policy starts.
You pay a premium once a year. In return, the insurer agrees to pay the cost of certain events that may never happen. The premium of every customer goes into one pool, and the few who suffer a loss in a given year are paid out of that pool. Your premium is small next to the cost of the events it covers, because most cars in the pool will not be in an accident this year.
2 things follow from that. The first is that the insurer has to write down exactly which events it will pay for, which is why a policy document lists both what is covered and what is not. The second is that the price you are quoted reflects how likely your car is to draw on the pool, which is why a new car in Mumbai costs more to insure than an older car in a smaller town.
Nearly every private car in India is insured under one of 3 arrangements. A Third-Party cover on its own is the legal minimum. An Own Damage cover bought on its own is held alongside a Third-Party cover you already hold. A Comprehensive Plan puts both halves in a single policy with a single premium, a single renewal date and a single claim process.
This page is written for the moment of choosing. It answers why comprehensive cover is recommended over Third-Party cover, how it compares with a standalone Own Damage cover, what it costs on a real car, what changes when the car is electric, and what changes when a bank still has a claim on the car. It does not restate the policy clause by clause. For that, read comprehensive car insurance explained, which is the full product guide and stays the reference for what the policy document covers.
A Comprehensive Plan is the base. On top of it you can buy optional covers, which are extra protections that widen the plan for an extra premium. The rest of the market calls them add-ons or riders. Kiwi Insurance calls them optional covers, and the 3 words mean the same thing. Some of them remove a deduction the base plan would make, and some create cover the base plan never held at all. You can see the whole set on the optional covers page.
A Comprehensive Plan is not unlimited cover. It is the widest of the 3 arrangements, not a promise to pay for everything that happens to the car. Age-related damage, breakdown that no accident caused, and damage caused while breaking the law all stay outside it. The next few sections set out where the line falls.
The same plan is sold under several names. Here is how they map to each other. Comprehensive insurance, package policy, full cover and an Own Damage (OD) plus Third-Party (TP) policy are all names for the same arrangement: one policy holding an Own Damage cover and a Third-Party cover together. Whatever the name on the quote, the test is simple. If the policy pays for damage to your own car as well as to other people, it is comprehensive cover.
Every term this page uses, defined once, in the order you will read it.
Kiwi Insurance's name for a policy that holds an Own Damage cover and a Third-Party cover together. When the words describe what the policy does rather than name the product, they stay lower case: this plan gives you comprehensive cover.
The half of the plan that pays to repair or replace your own car after an accident, theft, fire, flood or storm. It can also be bought on its own, which is why it has its own name.
The half of the plan that pays for the people you injure and the property you damage with your car. Every car on an Indian road must carry it under the Motor Vehicles Act, 1988.
The value of your car written into the policy. It is what the insurer pays if the car is stolen or damaged beyond repair, and it is the single biggest thing your premium is worked out from.
The value a car and its parts lose as they get older. It comes off the Insured Declared Value (IDV) each year, and it comes off the price of replaced parts on a repair claim unless you hold Zero Depreciation cover.
The fixed first slice of every own-damage claim that you pay yourself. On a private car it is set by regulation at ₹1,000 for engines up to 1500 cubic centimetres (cc), which covers cars such as a Maruti Suzuki Swift or a Hyundai i20, and ₹2,000 above that, which covers cars such as a Mahindra XUV700 or a Toyota Innova Crysta. The insurer pays the rest.
What the insurer declares when the cost of repairing the car comes to more than 75% of its Insured Declared Value (IDV), or when the car is stolen and not found. The plan then pays the Insured Declared Value (IDV) rather than a repair bill.
A discount on the own-damage part of your premium, earned by finishing a policy year without making a claim. It builds from 20% to 50% over 5 claim-free years.
Kiwi Insurance's version of the same discount. It builds to 90% instead of stopping at 50%, and a claim takes it down one level instead of taking it to zero.
An extra protection bought on top of an Own Damage or Comprehensive Plan for an extra premium. The rest of the market calls the same thing an add-on or a rider. The 1 exception is Personal Accident cover, which can be added to any plan, including a Third-Party only plan.
A repair at a garage in the insurer's partner network, where the insurer pays the garage directly and you pay only your deductible and anything the policy does not cover.
A repair at a garage outside the network. You pay the garage, send the bills in, and the insurer pays you back the approved amount.
A written change to a live policy, such as a new address or a new owner. The insurer issues an updated policy document showing the change.
A gap between one policy ending and the next starting. A car with a break-in usually has to be looked at by the insurer before comprehensive cover can start again.
A formal complaint to the insurer about a decision you disagree with. It is the first step of the escalation route set out further down this page.
To take a complaint past the insurer to an outside body, which for motor insurance means the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI) and then the Insurance Ombudsman.
Comprehensive cover is recommended over Third-Party cover because Third-Party cover pays nothing towards your own car. The law asks you to insure the harm you may do to other people, and it stops there. The car sitting in your parking slot, which is usually the most valuable thing you own after your home, is left entirely on you. A Comprehensive Plan moves that cost off your own savings and meets the legal requirement in the same policy.
A Third-Party cover is a good policy for what it is. It is the cover the Motor Vehicles Act, 1988 makes compulsory, it pays for injury to a person you hit with no upper limit set by the policy, and it pays up to ₹7.5 lakhs for property belonging to someone else. It is also the cheapest motor policy you can buy. None of that changes the fact that after the accident, your own car is still standing at the roadside and no part of that policy will pay to move it.
A Third-Party claim needs a third party. A large share of the damage that happens to private cars in India has no third party in it at all. A stone thrown up by a lorry cracks the windscreen and the lorry is 3 kilometres away. Water rises in a basement car park overnight and nobody is at fault. A car is taken from outside a wedding hall and never seen again. In each of those, a Third-Party cover pays nothing, an Own Damage cover pays, and a Comprehensive Plan holds both.
This is the point most owners are surprised by, so it is worth stating plainly. The Third-Party cover pays for property belonging to somebody else. It does not pay for property belonging to you. If you damage your own things with your own car, there is no third party anywhere in the event, and a Third-Party cover has nothing to pay out on.
Take an evening at your own house. You reverse out of the gate in the dark, misjudge the turn, and drag the rear quarter panel of the car along your own boundary wall. 2 things are now damaged: the wall, and the car. The wall is your property, so the Third-Party cover does not pay for it. The car is your property, so the Third-Party cover does not pay for that either. On a Third-Party cover the whole evening comes out of your own pocket. On a Comprehensive Plan, the Own Damage half pays to put the car right, less your deductible, and you are left with only the wall.
A Third-Party cover insures other people against you. Only an Own Damage cover, whether inside a Comprehensive Plan or bought on its own, insures you against your own bad evening.
The boundary wall is the clearest example of a wider rule. Your house, your gate, your garage door, the second car on the drive and the scooter parked beside it are all your property. None of them is a third party, so none of them is paid for by a Third-Party cover, and neither is the car that hit them. A Comprehensive Plan does not pay for the wall either, because it insures the car rather than the building. What it does is pay to put the car right, which on a Third-Party cover you would have paid for yourself on top of the wall.
There is a second kind of personal property that owners ask about, and the answer is less comfortable. A Comprehensive Plan insures the car, not the things inside it. If a window is forced in a car park and a laptop bag, a phone, a pram or the week's shopping is taken off the back seat, the policy pays for the broken glass, the damaged door and the lock. It pays nothing towards the bag or anything in it. The same applies to luggage on a long drive, tools in the boot, and documents left in the glovebox.
Fittings are treated differently from belongings. Anything permanently fitted to the car and declared to the insurer, such as a compressed natural gas (CNG) kit, a fitted music system or alloy wheels, can be insured as part of the car by being recorded on the policy and added to the Insured Declared Value (IDV). Anything fitted and not declared is in the same position as the shopping on the back seat. The 1 personal item with a cover of its own is the car key, which Key Replacement cover pays to replace after a loss or a theft.
What to do about belongings instead. Take valuables out of the car rather than out of sight, declare every non-factory fitting when you take or renew the policy so it forms part of the Insured Declared Value (IDV), and check whether your home or travel insurance already covers personal items away from home. A motor policy will not be persuaded to pay for a laptop, however the window was broken.
On a car with an Insured Declared Value (IDV) of a few lakhs of rupees, the gap between a Third-Party cover and a Comprehensive Plan is a few thousand rupees a year. One repaired bumper and one headlamp unit usually costs more than that gap
These are the losses that take the whole car rather than a panel of it, and none of them has a third party to pursue. Only the Own Damage half responds, and on a total loss it pays the Insured Declared Value (IDV)
If the car is on a loan, the bank or finance company holds an interest in the car until the loan is paid off and will normally require comprehensive cover for the whole of that period. This is set out in what a car loan changes
There is a point at which comprehensive cover stops being worth its price. Once a car is old enough that its Insured Declared Value (IDV) has fallen to a small figure, the own-damage premium can approach what the insurer would ever pay out, and the deductible eats into what is left. A 14-year-old car kept for short local trips, with an Insured Declared Value (IDV) of well under a lakh of rupees, is a reasonable case for carrying only the Third-Party cover the law requires.
The honest test is not the age of the car but the size of the cheque you would have to write if it were destroyed tomorrow. If that number would hurt, the car needs comprehensive cover. If you would shrug and buy another one, a Third-Party cover is enough.
What each of the 3 arrangements pays for, and what each one leaves with you. A Comprehensive Plan and a Third-Party cover plus a standalone Own Damage cover end up in the same place: your car and other people are both insured. The difference is in the paperwork and the price. A Comprehensive Plan is 1 policy, 1 premium and 1 renewal date. The other route is 2 policies with 2 renewal dates, which is useful when a long-term Third-Party cover is already running and awkward once it is not.
This is worth correcting because it is often put the wrong way round. Optional covers attach to the own-damage part of a policy, with one exception, Personal Accident cover for passengers, which covers people rather than the car. The own-damage part exists inside a Comprehensive Plan, and it also exists inside a standalone Own Damage cover. So there are 2 routes to optional covers, not 1. What you cannot do is add any other optional cover to a Third-Party cover on its own, because a Third-Party cover holds nothing for your car and there is nothing for that cover to attach to.
Renewing after a long-term policy ends? A car bought new carries 3 years of Third-Party cover from the start. When the Own Damage year runs out at the end of year 1, you can either buy a standalone Own Damage cover for years 2 and 3, or wait and move to a Comprehensive Plan once the Third-Party cover expires. Both are normal. The first keeps the car insured in the meantime.
Most owners of a small petrol hatchback pay between ₹6,500 and ₹9,000 a year for a Comprehensive Plan, including the 18% Goods and Services Tax (GST). A sedan or a mid-size sport utility vehicle (SUV) usually lands between ₹11,000 and ₹18,000, and a large sport utility vehicle (SUV) between ₹22,000 and ₹34,000. Those are whole-plan figures, so they already contain the Third-Party premium the law sets.
The premium has 3 parts. The Third-Party part is fixed by the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI) and is the same at every insurer for the same car. The own-damage part is set by the insurer and is where the quotes differ. On top of both comes the compulsory Personal Accident cover of ₹15 lakhs for the owner-driver, unless you already hold that cover on another vehicle you own.
3 things move as a car ages. The Insured Declared Value (IDV) falls every year, which pulls the own-damage premium down with it. The No Claim Bonus (NCB) builds with every year you go without a claim, which pulls it down further. Against both, older cars need more repairs, so the rate applied to the Insured Declared Value (IDV) creeps up. The first 2 usually win.
The Third-Party half does not vary between insurers. That premium is notified by the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI) and every insurer in India charges the same rupee figure for the same engine size. If 2 quotes for the same car differ on that line, one of them has read the engine size wrong.
The own-damage half does vary, and the gap is real. Insurers price the same car differently because they hold different claims records for that model in that city, they set the Insured Declared Value (IDV) within a range rather than at a single number, and they price optional covers on their own scales. 2 honest quotes on the same hatchback can sit 20% to 30% apart on the own-damage line before a single optional cover is added.
Compare 2 quotes on the Insured Declared Value (IDV) first and the premium second. A lower Insured Declared Value (IDV) always makes a premium look better and always makes a total loss pay less.
What the battery does to your Insured Declared Value (IDV), your premium and your payout.
An electric car needs the same Comprehensive Plan as a petrol car, but it is priced on different numbers and it carries one part that changes everything: the traction battery, which is the large battery pack that drives the wheels. On most electric cars sold in India the pack is worth 30% to 45% of the whole car, so it forms part of your Insured Declared Value (IDV), it lifts your own-damage premium, and it decides how quickly a repair turns into a total loss.
A petrol car's Third-Party premium is set by engine size in cubic centimetres (cc). An electric car has no engine, so the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI) rates it on the power of the motor in kilowatts (kW), and sets the rate about 15% below the comparable petrol band. That discount is the regulator's, not an insurer's offer, so it is the same wherever you buy. It applies to the Third-Party premium only, not to the own-damage part. Your car's rated motor power is printed on its registration certificate (RC), so check the band there.
The Insured Declared Value (IDV) is worked out from the car's list price less depreciation for its age, and on an electric car that list price already contains the battery. So the same body shell, badge for badge, carries a higher Insured Declared Value (IDV) in its electric form than in its petrol form. A compact sport utility vehicle (SUV) that lists at ₹9 lakhs as a petrol car and ₹14 lakhs as an electric car is insuring a different amount of money from day one.
That has 3 consequences on a real policy, and they are worth walking through before you agree an Insured Declared Value (IDV) at renewal.
A Comprehensive Plan pays for sudden damage to the battery pack: an impact that cracks the casing, a fire, a flood that reaches the pack, or theft of the whole car. It does not pay for the pack losing range as it ages. That gradual fall in capacity is a manufacturing matter, and it is handled by the battery warranty the carmaker gives, which on most Indian electric cars runs to 8 years or 1,60,000 kilometres, whichever comes first.
There is one detail that catches owners out when the repair bill is worked out. On a repair claim the insurer applies depreciation part by part, and batteries have always been deducted at the highest rate, the same 50% as rubber, nylon and plastic parts. Applied literally to a traction battery, that would take a large amount off the most expensive part in the car. Insurers are still deciding how the old table should read for a part that did not exist when it was written, so the safe move on an electric car is to hold Zero Depreciation cover, which removes the age deduction on replaced parts altogether.
Charging equipment is not automatically part of the car. The portable charging cable supplied with the car is covered while it is in the car, because it came with the car. A wall box fixed to your garage wall is part of your property, so it is not covered by a motor policy at all. If you have spent real money on home charging, it belongs on a home insurance policy or on a separate cover.
2 national schemes come up whenever electric cars are discussed, and neither of them touches your insurance premium. The first is Faster Adoption and Manufacturing of Hybrid and Electric Vehicles (FAME), which ran in 2 phases from 2015 and gave a purchase subsidy on qualifying electric vehicles. The second is the Prime Minister Electric Drive Revolution in Innovative Vehicle Enhancement scheme, known as PM E-DRIVE, which replaced it in 2024 and directs its support mainly at electric two-wheelers, three-wheelers, buses, trucks, ambulances and charging points rather than at privately owned electric cars.
Both schemes change the price you paid for the car, and through that the list price your Insured Declared Value (IDV) is worked out from. Neither changes the premium. The only insurance concession written specifically for electric vehicles is the 15% lower Third-Party rate set by the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI).
Removes the age deduction on replaced parts. On an electric car this is the difference between a battery or motor replacement paid in full and one paid in part
Pays the original invoice price rather than the depreciated Insured Declared Value (IDV) on a theft or total loss. Electric cars depreciate faster than petrol cars in the used market, so the gap this closes is wider
An electric car that runs out of charge cannot be helped with a can of fuel. It has to be moved to a charging point, which makes towing the only answer
Pays for the coolant, lubricants and fixings a repair uses up. An electric car has fewer of these than a petrol car, so this one is worth less here than elsewhere
A Comprehensive Plan pays for exactly the same things on a car under a loan as on a car you own outright. Nothing in the cover narrows or widens because a bank is involved. What changes is who receives the money on a total loss, what the lender can insist on while the loan runs, and what you have to do to the policy once the loan is paid off.
When a car is bought on finance, the lender is recorded against the car in 2 places: on the registration certificate (RC), where it appears as the party the car is pledged to, and on the insurance policy, where it is recorded as the party with a financial interest in the car. Both entries exist for the same reason. The lender has put money into a car it does not drive, and it wants to be sure the car is insured and that it is paid first if the car is ever lost.
The lender's interest does not fall away on its own. Once the last instalment is paid, the lender issues a no-objection certificate (NOC). That document goes to the regional transport office to have the pledge removed from the registration certificate (RC), and a copy goes to your insurer so the lender's name can be taken off the policy by endorsement. Until both are done, a total loss payout will still be sent to a lender you no longer owe anything to, and untangling that afterwards takes weeks you will not want to spend.
If the car is on a loan, take the highest Insured Declared Value (IDV) offered rather than the lowest. On a total loss the lender is paid out of that figure before you are, so a low Insured Declared Value (IDV) does not save you money. It just means there is less left for you once the loan has been cleared.
What each one does on top of a Comprehensive Plan, and the rules that apply to all of them. Optional covers attach to the own-damage part of a policy, so you can add them to a Comprehensive Plan or to a standalone Own Damage cover. The one exception is Personal Accident cover for passengers, which covers people rather than the car and can be added to any car policy. They are bought at purchase or at renewal, each one adds to the premium, and each one either removes a deduction the base plan would make or creates cover the base plan never held. The full set, with what each one costs, is on the optional covers page.
Pays the full cost of replaced parts with nothing taken off for their age. The single most useful cover on a car under 5 years old For: Newer cars, and any car with plastic bumpers and lamp units
Pays for damage to the engine and gearbox from water getting into the engine or from oil leaking away. The base plan does not cover either, because neither is an accident For: Cities that flood, and basement parking
Pays the original invoice price of the car, rather than the depreciated Insured Declared Value (IDV), on a theft or a total loss For: Cars under 3 years old, and cars on a loan
Pays for the oils, coolant, brake fluid, nuts and bolts a repair uses up, which a standard plan leaves off the payout For: Anyone who wants the bill closed in one go
Towing, a jump start, a flat tyre changed, fuel brought to you, and a locksmith if the keys are inside the car For: Long-distance drivers and anyone without a spare wheel
Pays for tyres and tubes damaged by a cut, a burst or a bulge. A standard plan pays for tyres only when the rest of the car is damaged in the same accident For: Poor road surfaces and low-profile tyres
Pays to replace and reprogramme a lost or stolen key, and to rekey the locks if the key was taken For: Cars with a single smart key
Extends accident cover to the people in the other seats. The owner-driver's own ₹15 lakhs is already compulsory on every policy For: Family cars and shared commutes
They draw on the same claim, not on a separate one. When you claim, the insurer works out one payout for the damage and each optional cover you hold changes how that payout is worked out. Zero Depreciation cover removes the age deduction from it, Consumables cover adds the fluids and fixings into it, and so on. There is no second claim to raise and no second form to fill in.
What some optional covers do carry is a cap on how many times they will act in a policy year. Kiwi Insurance allows [number] Zero Depreciation claims a year, and [number] Engine Protect cover claims a year. A claim past that cap in the same policy year is still paid, but it is paid as a standard claim with the usual deductions.
There is no maximum number of optional covers on one policy. You can hold every optional cover Kiwi Insurance offers on a single Comprehensive Plan, and on a new car many owners do. The limit is practical rather than contractual: each one adds premium, and several of them stop being worth their price once the car is past about 5 years old, because the amounts they protect have shrunk with the car's value.
You report the damage, an assessor looks at the car, the insurer approves the work, the car is repaired, and the money moves. On a Comprehensive Plan the payout is the cost of putting the car right, less the depreciation on replaced parts and less your deductible, unless you hold optional covers that remove those deductions.
In the Kiwi Insurance app or by phone, with photographs of the car where it stands. Do this before the car is moved to a garage wherever it is safe to wait
This happens once the claim is registered. From then on, one person takes the claim to the end. You are given their name and number, so you never have to repeat your case to the customer support helpline
An assessor lists the parts to be replaced and the labour needed, either at the garage or from your photographs on a small claim
This is where depreciation on replaced parts and your deductible are taken off, and where any optional covers you hold remove those deductions
At a partner garage the insurer pays the garage directly. Anywhere else, Kiwi PayFirst puts the approved amount in your account before the garage asks you for it
You hand the car over and the insurer pays the garage directly for the approved work. You pay only your deductible and anything the plan does not cover. This is what cashless repair means, and it is the simplest route because no money leaves your account and comes back.
Comprehensive cover does not pay the Insured Declared Value (IDV) on the day the car is stolen, and the reason is worth understanding. A stolen car may be recovered, so the insurer cannot pay out the Insured Declared Value (IDV) on the day it goes missing and then find the car in a compound 3 weeks later. There is a sequence, and it runs to a rhythm the police set as much as the insurer does.
The police complaint is what starts the official record. Tell your insurer the same day, even if the police paperwork is not finished yet
On a theft claim the insurer looks into the circumstances rather than at damage. Expect questions about where the car was parked, who had the keys, and when it was last seen
If the car cannot be found, the police issue a report saying so. This is the document the insurer needs before it can treat the car as lost rather than missing. It commonly takes between 1 and 3 months
The registration certificate (RC), both sets of keys, a letter transferring the car to the insurer, and the lender's consent if the car is on a loan
Once the paperwork is complete, the insurer pays the Insured Declared Value (IDV), less your deductible. If the car is on a loan, the lender is paid first out of that amount
A Comprehensive Plan sets no maximum number of own-damage claims in a policy year. You can claim as often as you genuinely need to, and every valid claim is paid. 3 things do change as the claims add up, and all 3 are worth knowing before you raise a claim for a scratch.
The practical line most owners arrive at is simple. If the repair costs less than your deductible plus the No Claim Bonus (NCB) you would give up, pay for it yourself and keep the discount. If it costs more, claim.
The insurer decides first, on the assessor's report and the policy document, and you are told in writing which clause the decision rests on. If you disagree, there are 4 steps, taken in order: ask for the decision in writing, raise a grievance with the insurer, take it to the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI) through its Bima Bharosa portal, and then go to the Insurance Ombudsman, whose decision binds the insurer but not you.
Borderline cases are less mysterious than they sound. Nearly all of them come down to one question: was this damage caused by a sudden event, or did it build up over time? A Comprehensive Plan pays for sudden events. It does not pay for age-related damage or for a part that simply stopped working. A bumper cracked in a collision is a sudden event. A bumper whose paint has faded after years in the sun is not. An engine that seizes because the oil was never changed is not a sudden event either.
You are entitled to know the exact clause a claim was declined under. Ask your Claims Specialist for it in writing before you argue about anything
Every insurer has a grievance officer who is separate from the claims team. Kiwi Insurance's route is on the grievance page, and the insurer must acknowledge it within 3 days and respond within 14 days
If there is no reply in 14 days, or the reply does not satisfy you, register the complaint on the Insurance Regulatory and Development Authority of India (IRDAI) Bima Bharosa portal
For claims up to ₹50 lakhs you can approach the Insurance Ombudsman free of charge, within 1 year of the insurer's final reply. The decision binds the insurer. You stay free to go to court instead
Get a second opinion on the assessment, not just on the decision. Most disputes are really disagreements about the assessor's list of parts rather than about the policy document. Ask for the assessment report, take it to the garage, and have the garage put in writing what it disagrees with. That document moves a grievance further than an argument about principle ever will.
A No Claim Bonus (NCB) is a discount on the own-damage part of your premium, earned by finishing a policy year without making a claim. It starts at 20% after the first claim-free year and builds to 50% after the fifth. It is earned by you rather than by the car, so it does not pass to a buyer when you sell. It carries across to a new insurer when you move straight across, and is lost after a gap in cover of more than 90 days.
On a standard plan, one claim takes the whole discount away at the next renewal and you start again at 20% the following year. That is the rule across the market, and it is why so many owners pay for small repairs themselves rather than claim for them.
Kiwi Insurance Super NCB works differently. A claim moves you down 1 step of the ladder instead of wiping the discount out. If you were at 75%, you renew at 60% rather than at zero, and you are back at 75% the year after that. The point of it is that a claim you were entitled to make should not cost you 4 years of discount as well as your deductible.
Kiwi Insurance Super NCB builds to 90% rather than stopping at 50%, and a claim costs you one level rather than the lot. Only with Kiwi
Up to 40% more discount
Drops one level on a claim, not to zero
Comprehensive cover starts at the time printed on the policy document, and there is no waiting period before you can claim on it. If the policy runs from 00:00 tomorrow and the car is hit at 09:00 tomorrow, that is a valid claim on its first day. The exception is a car that has been uninsured for a while, which usually has to be looked at by the insurer before cover can start.
The make, model, engine size, fuel and registration date come up from it, which is everything the quote is built on
You are shown a calculated figure and a range around it. This is the number that decides both your premium and what you are paid if the car is lost
Have the expiring policy document or the No Claim Bonus (NCB) certificate to hand. Declaring a discount you cannot prove is the most common reason a first claim runs into trouble
Add them now if you want them. They can only be added at purchase or at renewal, never part way through a policy year
Check the registration number, the engine and chassis numbers, the Insured Declared Value (IDV), the No Claim Bonus (NCB) and the list of optional covers on the day it lands, not on the day you claim
You can take comprehensive cover on a car that already has damage, but the damage that is already there will not be covered. This comes up most often on a car that has been off the road, or one bought second hand with marks already on it. The insurer will ask to see the car, either through a short video call or at a garage, and the assessor notes the damage that is already there. The policy is then issued with those items recorded as pre-existing, which means a later claim for that same dented door will be declined while everything else on the car is fully covered.
The inspection usually records 3 kinds of detail.
There is no advantage in hiding old damage, because the assessment at claim time shows which damage is fresh and which is old. The straightforward route is to get the existing damage repaired first, have the car looked at, and then insure it clean. If you repair it after the policy has started, keep the garage bill and photographs of the finished work, and ask your insurer whether it will look at the car again and remove the note from the policy by endorsement.
A car whose policy has expired has a break in cover. For a short lapse, most insurers renew without fuss but the No Claim Bonus (NCB) is at risk past 90 days. For a longer lapse, the insurer will want to see the car before issuing comprehensive cover again, because it has no record of what happened to it while it was uninsured. That check is a formality on a car in good condition and it is usually done within a day.
Driving uninsured is not a small thing. Under the Motor Vehicles Act, 1988, driving without at least a Third-Party cover carries a fine of ₹2,000, up to 3 months in prison, or both for a first offence, and a fine of ₹4,000, up to 3 months in prison, or both for a second. The Act sets a single repeat figure, so a third offence and every offence after it carries the same ₹4,000 fine, up to 3 months in prison, or both, rather than rising again. Beyond the penalty, every rupee of harm you cause to another person while uninsured is yours to pay.
You can change the facts on a live policy, such as your address, your contact details, the registered owner and the lender's interest, and each of those is done by endorsement at no premium or at a small adjustment. You cannot change the shape of the cover itself. The Insured Declared Value (IDV), the optional covers and the type of plan are all fixed for the policy year and can only be reset at renewal.
You cannot downgrade in the middle of the policy year. A Comprehensive Plan is issued as a single contract for 12 months, and the own-damage half is not something you can hand back for a refund on its own. What you can do is cancel the policy by telling the insurer, and take a new Third-Party cover. Motor insurance has no free-look period, so any refund for the unused part of the year depends on the insurer's cancellation terms and on whether a claim has been made in that year. You also lose the No Claim Bonus year you were part way through earning. The Third-Party part is compulsory, so it cannot be cancelled while the car is on the road unless another valid Third-Party cover is already in place. Kiwi Insurance's own terms are [Kiwi Insurance cancellation and refund terms].
A car bought new is the one easy case. It carries 3 years of Third-Party cover from the start, and on the usual bundled policy only the Own Damage part is renewed each year. If you no longer want your own car covered, you simply do not renew the Own Damage part when its year ends, and the Third-Party cover carries on until its own end date.
For every other car, the sensible route is to let the plan run to its renewal date and choose a Third-Party cover then. If the car is on a loan, the choice is not yours to make at all until the loan is cleared, as set out in what a car loan changes.
Kiwi Insurance builds 4 things differently on a Comprehensive Plan: the discount you can build, who answers when you claim, how quickly the money reaches you, and how small repairs are handled. For exactly what your own plan covers and what it leaves out, read your policy document, which lists every inclusion and exclusion.
No other insurer takes the No Claim Bonus (NCB) past 50%, and no other insurer steps it down one level on a claim instead of taking it to zero
One person is assigned to you once the claim is registered, owns it to the last rupee and stays with it to the end, so you never have to repeat your case to the customer support helpline
At a garage outside the partner network, the approved amount reaches your bank account before the garage asks you for it, rather than weeks after you have paid
Hold small repairs back and fix them together in 1 claim, instead of paying a deductible on each one
Builds to 90% over 5 claim-free years, and a claim takes it down one level rather than to zero Why: The discount is the largest single saving on the plan
An optional cover included at no extra cost right now, which moves the approved amount to you before you pay the garage Why: A repair should not need your savings first
An optional cover included at no extra cost right now. Cash is paid to you on the day the car is booked in for a claim repair, so you are not out of pocket while it is fixed. [InstaCash limits from Kiwi Insurance] Why: A repair should not leave you short of money
An optional cover included at no extra cost right now. Hold small repairs back and fix them together in 1 claim, instead of paying a deductible on each one Why: A small dent should not cost a deductible of its own
Compulsory on every policy for the owner-driver, unless you already hold the same cover on another vehicle you own Why: It is the regulator's floor, not an extra
Unlimited for injury to a person, and up to ₹7.5 lakhs for damage to somebody else's property Why: It is the half of the plan the law requires
Compare Comprehensive Plans on 2 things once the Insured Declared Value (IDV) matches: what the discount does after a claim, and who picks up the phone when you make one. Those are the 2 places where the day it goes wrong feels different.
IRDAI-Certified Expert
Shweta reviews every motor page for accuracy against the Motor Vehicles Act and the current IRDAI rate notifications.
Comprehensive car insurance is one policy that holds 2 covers together: an Own Damage cover that pays to repair or replace your own car, and the Third-Party cover the law requires, which pays for the people and property you harm with your car. Kiwi Insurance sells it as the Comprehensive Plan.